Monday, December 24, 2012

Warm Again

The leaves are starting to change
But all I feel is exactly the same
And the cold is coming in
Through the window panes
And your eyes are getting
That same sad look you wore last year
Beneath the hood of your coat
And I think that we should get away

So pack your bags I won't ask twice
I'll drag you if I have to
Throw your mittens out into the night
And get in my car
And we'll take the road south
And we'll keep driving
'Til you feel warm again
Warm again

Some nights I'm happy to sit with
My cup of tea and my blanket around me
But others you know I just feel empty
And you're back in that
Same sad cave that you dug last year
In an attempt to escape
And I think that we should get away

So pack your bags I won't ask twice
I'll drag you if I have to
Throw your mittens out into the night
And get in my car
And we'll take the road south
And we'll keep driving 'til you
Feel warm again
Warm again

So pack your bags I won't ask twice
I'll drag you if I have to
Throw your mittens out into the night
And get in my car
And we'll take the road south
And we'll keep driving
'Til you feel warm again
Warm again

Oh we'll keep on driving
'Til you feel 'til you feel
Oh we'll keep on driving
'Til you feel 'til you feel
We'll keep driving
We'll keep driving
'Til you feel
We'll keep driving
'Til you feel
Warm again
~lyrics by Hannah and Maggie

This song pretty much got me through my time in Irbid. I love it. Now I am home, warm and safe in Massachusetts. Here's the story:

After 7 months of misery,I took my fos-ha exam (I was too done to study which I am not proud of but whatever... It doesnt really matter in the long run, I still have to take another test when I get back to GW). It was really hard, and I don't think I did that well, but who knows?

Then I went to Manal's apartment. She is the Academic Director. We discussed my essay, and it was nice to just talk with her. That night we had a goodbye dinner, and all our teachers came to say goodbye. It was nice and we got a lot of lovely photos. The girls made cards for each of our teachers. Then we said goodbye and went to finish cleaning our apartments, before heading out to the airport!!! My flight was the first, at 4am but we all were so eager to get out of Irbid that the other girls came with me. We got there at about 11:30, but only about 30 minutes later, they called my flight for check-in. I said goodbye and headed through. They were very confused with my carry-on bag because I had a glass lamp (you put a candle in it and it is really beautiful) inside. I took it on carry-on because I was worried of it breaking. They made someone check my bag, and when he realized what it was he got all worried about it breaking and helped me wrap it up nice and carefully. They let me take an open water bottle and food on the plane. Jordanian security, ladies and gentlemen. I flew to Istanbul which is a very confusing airport. Luckily, I was creeping in on people's conversations on the plane and knew one man who was going to New York, so I followed him and he found where to go okay. Still though, the shear size of the airport made me get to the gate after it was closed, but they still let me on without a hassle. The plane was HUGE and had WiFi! I didn't use it though, I just took a sleeping pill and tried to sleep. I woke up a few hours later and had enough time to watch a movie. I landed in New York and hoped in a cab and headed to Hannah's office where I met her and left my large suitcase. Taking only a small duffel, we had a quick lunch (Thai food!!!!!! How I missed it!!!) then I had to walk over to catch my megabus to DC. Of course, the bus left on time and was about 40 minutes late, but finally I got there and was met by my two best friends Marissa and Raquan! It was lovely to see them and was Raquan's 21st birthday! We rushed home so I could shower (about 30 hours of travel leaves one in desperate need of a shower). We went out for a lovely birthday meal and were "planning" on going to some bars but decided to reconvene with some other friends at Raquan's apartment. When we got there, a SURPRISE PARTY! awaited her. It was so lovely to see everyone, but I felt like I had been off planet (like in star trek) for so long. I missed A LOT. The next day, I met a friend from work for coffee and then passed out in the most beautiful bed ever for a while, and Raquan and I went out to eat more Thai food. Then it was a holiday party, and the next day I left. I got back on a bus and headed back to New York. When I arrived, I walked over to my sisters office, and met up with Hannah and my mom, and we walked to meet my dad (who had NO idea I was home. He thought I was in Vienna as an au pair). I surprised him for his birthday and he was very happy and shocked. We headed home.

It is lovely to be home.

Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Final Stretch

So I am almost done! Yesterday was my Media Arabic final. We had to do a Panorama of news from 2012 on a specific topic, and then discuss one of the topics in detail. Both Olivia and I wanted to do education so we asked if we could do it together. We could, ours just had to be longer. I discovered a new better than power point website called Prezi. Its pretty cool. We used it for our presentation. We had a picture of the world and zoomed to different places and discussed what happened with them this year in regards to education. Then Olivia talked about Malala, a Pakistani girl who started sending her journal to BBC Urdu. Her journal was all about her trying to get an education under the Taliban, and how difficult it was. She got shot in the head this year and is currently healing in England. Shes pretty fucking cool, and Olivia and her friend actually started an online campaign to get pictures of all the girls in all the world reading all the books, because if thats what the Taliban is scared of, thats what we want to do. Her campaign is called #Girlwithabook and she has gotten pictures from over 400 countries and even from famous people like Ban Ki Moon (Secretary-General of the United Nations) reading a book with his granddaughter. So thats pretty awesome. So she discussed that in detail, and I discussed the Mama Project, which is in Kechenga, DRC (Congo). For her masters in education, one woman went to the Congo to set up a school for women because they need a lot of help and education, and it has been really successful and really cool.  We talked about a bunch of other things too. Our project was supposed to be 30-40 minutes but we easily talked for about an hour or longer, all in Arabic! So that was pretty cool. 

Today I have my Archaeological History of Jordan final. Basically I made a Prezi and have to discuss the paper I wrote. Its in English, so I am not worried at all. My paper was on the Umayyad period, so that is also a really easy topic. 

After that, at 6 today I have my OPI meaning my Oral Proficiency Interview. Yesterday I got a practice OPI from our Academic Director Manal. She is licensed to give them I think but she can't give them to us because she is our teacher and its a conflict of interest.  But she said if she doesnt like the scores we get she will send them to the people and make them change our scores. I got an advanced low, but she said there is a chance I could be an advanced mid. so thats pretty cool! I started here this summer at novice low. there is novice low, med, high; intermediate low, med, high; and advanced low, med, high. So thats a pretty big jump- 6 levels in 6 months. Not bad. Hopefully I can get to advanced medium, but I kind of doubt it. The only problem now is convincing my professor at GW that advanced low is still better than the 'advanced' class at GW. According to GW I should have come here at Intermediate mid, but I didnt cause they can't teach me in an adequate way really. 1 hour a day isn't the same as 3 hours a day plus 1 hour of amiyya plus 6 extra hours of Media Arabic a week, plus just not speaking in English like ever. its not the same. 
 
Anyways, tomorrow I have my Arabic fos-ha final, and I also have to talk about my paper that I wrote. I'm actually really proud of  it. The boys in my class wrote their papers on 'food in Jordan' and 'the difference between living in Jordan and Morocco'. My paper was on the the participation of Arab nations in WWII. I talked about the Grand Mufti who was a raging anti-Semite, the revolt in Iraq, and to balance it out, I told some of the amazing stories discovered by Robert Satlof in his book Among the Righteous about Arabs who saved Jews in North Africa

then I'm DONE!!!!!!

Tuesday, December 4, 2012

Rii7la Tweela

 The title of this post is the Jordanian chat language version of saying 'long trip'. Unfortunately, it was not as long as we had hoped, due to protests. It was only 2 days, one night, and we didn't get to go to Wadi Rum (my favorite place in Jordan) I was sad, but what can you do? Our plan was this: 7:50 am drive to Mount Nebo. Hang out for an hour, then head over to the Dead sea. Spend an hour there, then lunch, then trek on over to Petra! We got there at about 7:30 pm, had some time, then dinner, and studying! Yay going on the trip 2 weeks late, aka the week before finals!!!!! Then in the morning at 7 we woke up for breakfast, and 8:10am we left for Petra (a 5 minute walk to the entrance). We returned around 3:30 for a quick lunch and then back on the bus to Irbid :( No in more detail.

Mount Nebo
So last time, we got a big bus that was relatively comfortable. Of course, as we are only 7 people on the program and only 3 roommates came and 4 teachers and a driver, we were lucky enough to get the little shitty bus that is much bumpier on the terrible Jordanian roads. The roads are also pretty bad in Israel, I don't know what it is about this part of the world, but they don't have smooth roads.  Anyways, not really important. When we finally got there, it was fine...nothing super special to me, but a nice view. For those of you who don't know, Mount Nebo is a holy christian sight. This is because it is where Moses died. He lead the Jews for 40 years, so obviously, dealing with grumpy Jews in the desert made him rather annoyed at life, and when he asked G-d for some water, G-d told him to tap a rock with his staff. But Moses smacked the rock hard, and water did come out, but he was banned from the Promised Land...kinda a harsh punishment, but G-d is G-d and he gets to make the rules I guess. Anyways, I didn't quite get why it was a HOLY CHRISTIAN site, until my friend reminded me there aren't really Jews here, so I guess that makes sense. Anyways, this picture above is of me being Moses and looking out at the Promised land (actually its in the opposite direction, but no big deal) I've got my beard and my (invisible) staff, and I am sad to not be able to cross, and know I am about to die cause I've done my part. Yeah, I thought about this.  The picture below is of my and my favorite teacher, Iman. She was my teacher during the summer, and now I have Adella. I miss Iman as my teacher...she is from Syria which is a totally different culture, so she understands why its hard for us here...Her and Manal, the Academic Director, as well as Mazen the Residential Director, but
 he's a man so its not exactly the same, are all from Syria and all are pretty miserable here. The American CET staff based in DC don't like them talking smack about the city we live in, but I am glad they do. This is a pretty awful place, and knowing that Arabs have just as hard a time living here as I do lets me know that it is not my American habits and ideas that are the problem...its not that I am not open minded, and its not that I didn't try to like it. This place really does just suck. And that doesn't mean that everyone here is bad, but a lot of them. It is a very sexist and oppressive place, and I will NEVER return. Jordan, of course...as a whole, I really like Jordan. Irbid, is its own thing, its own little bit of hell. We joke that it is next on the list after Sodom and Gomorrah to be smited by G-d. Just you wait. We'll read about it in the news one day. Anyways, I really like the three Syrians, and would not have made it 6 months here without them, so American CET office can suck it. They should never have made the Syria program move here...it was a terrible idea.

Dead Sea
So this is officially my fourth time at the Dead Sea. Woot. It was Olivia and Katie's first times, so that was exciting. At first, I didn't go in because I wanted to study and didn't want to get all salty and dirty or wet. But you can't go to the Dead Sea and see all your friends (not splashing, that is such a bad idea here) rolling around and floating in the water. So I went in.
The four girls, from Left, Chelsea, Olivia, Me, and Katie, starring into the distance.

 This is maybe my favorite picture, because Chelsea actually looks really good and I ruin it by rolling over...it also looks like I got a million limbs all twisted up...I think its pretty funny, so I added it. :)

After the fun in the sea, we had to dry off and change (I was still salty and sandy like I thought, but oh well) then we went to have lunch at the restaurant and I bought my friend a souvenir from the gift shop. It was originally 10JD so I said oh HELLS no (Jordan is super cheap so no way was I paying touristy prices for some crap produced in India anyways) so then they said 5JD and I said okay. But since I was pretty tired and salty from the sea, I wasn't bubbly or smiling, which made the Jordanians concerned I was unhappy, so the man brought it down to 4JD...still over priced, but much less so...so I was okay with it. I was at the Dead Sea so I couldn't expect too much, but I brought it down over 50% so that is always a good sign and I didn't even try to really 'haggle'.


PETRA
Petra, the best place of all. We arrived and had a little time before dinner so I took a proper shower. Of course, this is Jordan, so the temperature was only scalding hot to freezing cold and back and I really actually had no control over it...I turned on the water and it changed on its own. Still, the pressure was descent so I can't complain...it was the best shower I'd had since Amman. Dinner was great, with a ton of veggies, although the hotel owner guy had a really hard time wrapping his head around vegetarianism. He kept asking me how I ate, and what I wanted to eat for breakfast (In Jordan, breakfast is generally cheeses, lebne which is like yoghurt, veggies, and breads with normal spreads, and hard boiled eggs...all of which I eat, so I was confused why he was confused)  he also asked several times about lunch (which I will discuss later as it was a huge success in my book). After dinner, we asked Mazen if CET would pay for the girls to get internet (3jd per hour! way expensive) since we had to do work for school since it was the end of the semester. He agreed, and I got pretty far in my research essay. My research essay for my fos-ha class (Modern Standard Arabic) was 5 pages single spaced in Arabic. We got to choose our own topics. This summer (5 pages but double spaced) I wrote about Petra, but it was kind of a cop out because it was sooo easy and I just translated a few on-line sources. The essay isn't about the research it is about how well you use Arabic, so after I ran out of things to say about Petra I discussed it's appearance in popular culture, films like Transformers and Indiana Jones. This time, I didn't want to do that, I wanted to write about something real that I was interested in, actually put some effort into it. Since we learned all these violent and sad words, I decided to write about he holocaust and World War 2. Since our only rule was to relate it to the Arab world, my topic was the participation of Arabs in World War 2. It was actually quite fascinating, and I found out about this author who researched and  documented stories of Arabs who had saved Jews in North Africa during the holocaust. I wrote about both sides, as there was a strong anti semitic group of Arabs, especially in Palestine (the Grand Mufti of Jerusalem was pretty good pals with Hitler) as well as other countries who didn't care about the Jews plight or not but they wanted to be free of their colonial powers and joined the opposite side as their colonial country. Again I ran out of things to say (my Arabic vocabulary is not that great so my sentences were pretty concise) so I discussed holocaust denial and other things of the sort. I got to 3.5 pages by the time I stopped, and went to bed.

The next morning was so difficult to wake up. I actually convinced myself to skip going to Petra because I've seen it, but then realized that was not something I wanted to do, and got myself up. Breakfast was fine, but there was salt in the coffee and I was way sad. Two of the girls didn't get up, and I had to go wake them. We finally walked over to buy the tickets to get in, but there was some mix up and we had to get a fax from the university to get discounted tickets, and it took about an hour to actually get inside. Finally, we walked in, and being in an archaeology class, my homework had been to read the chapter on the Nebateans (who built Petra). Thus I gave the girls the walking tour (at least through the Siq - the big skinny canyon you walk through, about 1km until it suddenly opens out and you see the Tomb of the Pharoah) Pretty cool huh? This was built in AD 100s. Their view point was go big or go home. They went big. The amazing thing is they didn't start small either...they have some basic cave houses, and then several huge tombs and churches like this...huge! Its crazy, I can't really believe how awesome this is. There were some pretty grumpy 'Roman Soldiers' standing around trying to make money, so we took a picture with them, trying to look grumpy like we were captives...

 After that, we walked around. It really is amazing...my roommate Lara, Katie and I climbed the Khubtha Trail (I think that is what it was called). It was 612 stairs (I counted on the way down) and we nearly died. We took many breaks, and finally we made it to the top. There was a great view, but nothing else...just rock. Slightly disappointing. It was sad because Olivia didn't feel well so she didn't explore too much. Below will be a series of photos of the amazingness of Petra:

Katie taking on of the many breaks on the way up to the top of the Khubtha trail

check out the ceiling! its like that everywhere! Fucking Amazing!!!!!

Like I said, buildings just pop out of the rocks, Like Daisies!

Here is a picture of Katie and Lara looking through what could have been a window...who knows for sure?

here is their amphitheater...a lot of things were pretty badly damaged by earthquakes, but the ruins are still pretty cool

Rommie picture! Lara, my roommate and I play games in the houses

Here is me, playing on the ruins...because you can do that in Jordan
This is high up, but still not the top of the Khubtha trail. Its hard to see, but there are Katie and I standing on the rock waving.

Fort Night Fortnight

Tonight will be a  big night. I will be writing two blog posts tonight because I have fallen slightly behind. So be prepared for some awesomeness.

In Israel, the girls and I decided we would not make it 40 days in Irbid without doing something 'happy' every day. We made a list of little things and big things to try and bring some sunshine into our apartment-stuck lives (girls aren't really supposed to be out after dark unless accompanied by a related man. Also, outside is where the shebab are, so we don't go there...needless to say I think I am quite vitamin deficient - especially since they dont eat a lot of veggies....I do my best, but there is only so much I can do.

Anyways, what I was most excited for from our 'Happiness List' was Fort Night Fortnight. Our two weeks left mark would be celebrated with the building of a fort! When was the last time you built a fort? Its been years, and I am pretty sure I was with Grant, the 2 year old version of the boy I used to babysit. That was 8 years ago (oh my g-d I feel old right now). Anyways, I was super excited, cause I love forts. Two weeks was November 29th, last Thursday (I'm late I know, but I have a good excuse - several even!) So Thursday rolls around, and after class (Arab Media, interesting but much too long - it is 1.5 hours on the schedule, but she usually goes for 2. Once, she even went for 3 hours....all in Arabic....after a full day of Arabic classes...too much, makes my head explode) my friend Olivia and I hop in a cab and try to explain to the cab driver where we want to go (the one liquor store in Irbid) without actually telling him where (because alcohol is BAD here) and also, there aren't really addresses  so we had to say 'the circle before the circle with the clock tower'. The cab that picked us up had two other girls in it, so it was kind of awkward, but what the hell? Welcome to Jordan! So we finally got there, and asked about their wine selection. Unable to properly convey to us what kind of wine they had, they just told us to come behind the counter and look. Again kind of awkward, but Jordan! We got a white and a red, and headed back to the university. We picked up some veggies for our dinner, and while Olivia and Chelsea worked on dinner, Katie and I worked on the fort. Here are some awesome photos of the night...the fort in various stages, and might I say, it was a fort of champions. It was twine reinforced, with a squeegee entrance way, some sparkles and was big enough for 4 women and a table full of food and wine. As you can see, it was pretty epic. All in all a fantastic night. We got a little tipsy, and sang along to all my favorite musicals like Rent and 25th Annual Putnam County Spelling Bee.
"This is an ADULT fort!" says Chelsea with as much conviction as anyone can while sitting in a fort

Like our sign?

Look at all the delicious veggies we get to eat!!!!

The next day, we all came back to the fort to study. We made a mountain of banana nut pancakes, and sang 'Banana Pancakes' by Jack Johnson. We had planned on going back to Amman, just for the day, to study at Starbucks, but our residential director didn't want us to because of protests. Sad, but fort time was nice. Hours later, we went out for food and shenanigans, and when we came back, my roommate was there (she goes home for the weekends, but as our 'school trip' - the subject of my next entry- was the next day, she came back early). Needless to say she had some question. But as she is an amazing young woman and very open minded (very much NOT from around Irbid), she sort of just went with it. She joined in our studying, and hung out in the fort.

Saturday was a LONG day. and I will continue this story in the next blog post.